Sights and Sounds: Eid in Old Delhi

Salim Mirza has just finished making a fresh batch of steaming hot jalebis. A queue of brightly dressed children has already formed, all of them eyeing the stacks of the sticky sweet hopefully. A small merry-go-round is whizzing in the background and the balloon seller is doing brisk business. Welcome to Eid in the by lanes of Old Delhi, IndiaWhile celebrations add a cheer everywhere, the fast pace of cities seems to have diluted the festivities a great deal. But the Walled City has its own code of celebration. Here, Eid goes on for a comfortable three days which sometimes stretch into a week. As the holy month of Ramadan comes to an end, markets acquire a rosy glow. A few days before eid, groups of women, clad in black burqas, can be seen trying on glass bangles of vibrant hues. Says Babu, who runs a bangle shop in the famous Ballimaran market, “Customers want to match the shade of their bangles with their attire and business is brisk.” The decked up markets, the buzzing shoppers over laden with bags, the bonhomie all add to the raunaq(festive hustle bustle). But since the traditional Muslim calendar follows the lunar cycle, the moon has to be sighted before Eid can be declared.

The moon sighting ritual excites the denizens of Old Delhi like nothing else. Children and adults alike climb rooftops, waiting for the moon to show a glimpse. As soon as the moon is seen, a siren announces the glad tidings and the sound of firecrackers being burst can be heard miles off.

The day of eid begins with the traditional eid namaaz. Men and children in crisp, white kurta pajamas offer namaaz at the mosques. Hugs and boxes of sweets are exchanged. Another special Eid ritual involves giving ‘eidi’ (money given as a token) to those younger than you. Six year old Mohammad Hamza and his brother have been saying salaam to all the elders who pass by, hoping to collect the maximum amount possible. He chirps excitedly, “I am going to spend the money on rides and chaat and the new toys that they are selling.” Little girls in their shiny dresses with tiny purses in tow are showing of their mehandis (a traditional mode of adornment where patterns or decorations are made with henna plant on the hands) to each other with their cheap Chinese toy mobile phones in hand.

The smell of seviyan (the traditional Eid sweet) rich with milk and cream and nuts is wafting in the air. Different food items are being prepared for a lavish feast. Out in the markets as well, shops selling food are the most crowded. The scene at Jama Masjid is a chaos of colors and smells. The famous Karim’s hotel, the Jawahar hotel, Kallan Sweet Shop and the numerous other eateries that dot the area are all bursting at the seams. Just opposite is the ground where the Eid Milan (fair) is going to take place later and preparations are also underway. But each pocket in the old city has a mini fair of its own.

Amidst all this festivity, charity is not forgotten. A religious stipulation dictates that every Muslim household shall determine the fitra (an amount fixed according to the grains consumed by the members of the household) and donate it to the poor. Says Abdul Razzak, a resident of Matia Mahal, “Eid also means giving to the poor, to ensure that nobody is deprived of the festivities.”

Even as twilight falls, it cannot dampen the mood. People go out to visit relatives and friends and greetings of ‘Eid Mubarak’ (happy Eid) can be heard all around. For Old Delhi, Eid only marks the beginning of a month of festive cheer, as Diwali is just around the corner. And it is very clear that though the Walled City may be centuries old, it is still young at heart when it comes to celebrating in style.